Rome’s Best-Kept Secret
Forty minutes south of the Colosseum, the city gives way to volcanic hills, crater lakes, medieval towns, and chestnut forests. This is the Castelli Romani—a cluster of historic towns perched on the rim of an ancient volcano, where Romans have been escaping the summer heat since Imperial times.
Yet for most international travelers, this area remains invisible. And that’s exactly what makes it extraordinary. If you’re looking for a vacation immersed in nature, close to Rome but far from tourist trails, this is the guide for you.
What Are the Castelli Romani?
The Castelli Romani (Roman Castles) are a group of towns built on the Alban Hills, a volcanic complex approximately 20 km (12 miles) southeast of Rome. The name dates back to the 14th century, when noble Roman families built fortified residences on these hills.
Today, the area is a 15,000-hectare (37,000-acre) regional park that hosts two volcanic lakes (Albano and Nemi), dense forests, archaeological sites, and a gastronomic tradition that rivals anything found in Rome itself.
The Main Towns
Frascati – Famous for wine and Renaissance villas
Castel Gandolfo – The Pope’s summer residence overlooking Lake Albano
Ariccia – Renowned for porchetta and Bernini’s baroque square
Nemi – Known for wild strawberries and the Roman Ships Museum
Genzano di Roma – Home to the Infiorata flower festival and IGP bread
Albano Laziale – Features underground Roman cisterns
Link: www.casatornasole.it/eventi-sagre-castelli-romani/
Top Things to Do in the Castelli Romani
Link: www.visitcastelliromani.it/en/
Walk Around Lake Nemi
Lake Nemi is a perfectly round crater lake surrounded by forest. The 6 km (3.7 mile) trail that circles the lake is one of the most scenic walks in Lazio, shaded, level, and quiet enough to hear birdsong.
Distance | 6 km loop |
Difficulty | Easy (flat terrain) |
Duration | 1.5-2 hours |
Best Season | March-November |
The Roman Ships Museum, located just meters from the lakeshore, tells the story of Emperor Caligula’s ceremonial ships, recovered from the lake bottom in the 1930s.
Museum Information:
Museo delle Navi Romane, Via Diana 13, 00040 Nemi RM
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 9:00-19:00 (closed Mondays)
Tickets: €3 full / €2 reduced / Free under 18
Link: www. direzioneregionalemuseilazio.cultura.gov.it/en/luoghi/museo-delle-navi-romane/
Explore Ariccia’s Baroque Heart
Piazza della Repubblica in Ariccia is a Bernini masterpiece, a theatrical ensemble of palace, church, and fountains that makes you feel like you’re on a stage set.
Palazzo Chigi (open for guided tours) is an authentic gem that has remained intact through the centuries and also features a vast historic park with roman, medieval, and 16th-century ruins.
In the same square, the Locanda Martorelli museum is worth a visit. After soaking in culture, dive into the historic center and follow the locals to the fraschette, rustic taverns serving porchetta, pasta, and house wine.
Taste Ariccia’s IGP Porchetta
Porchetta, a whole roasted pig seasoned with aromatic herbs and fennel, sliced thin and served with bread, is this town’s iconic dish. Ariccia’s porchetta has earned IGP (Protected Geographical Indication) status, certifying its traditional preparation and local origin.
You’ll find it everywhere: in historic norcinerie (pork butcher shops), at market stalls, in sandwich shops, and at outdoor festivals. The real deal has crispy, herb-crusted skin and tender, juicy meat infused with wild fennel.
Link: www.palazzochigiariccia.it
Visit Albano’s Underground Cisterns
Beneath the streets of Albano Laziale lies a Roman cistern the size of a cathedral, built in the 1st century AD to supply the military camp of Legio II Parthica.
The guided tour (by reservation) is one of the most impressive underground experiences near Rome, and almost no tourists know about it.
Link: www.visitcastelliromani.it/en/travelguide/the-big-cistern-2/
Family-Friendly Nature Experiences
The Pratoni del Vivaro offer more than just horseback riding—this vast highland plateau is a place to completely disconnect and immerse yourself in nature. The open meadows, surrounded by oak and chestnut forests, create a peaceful atmosphere where time seems to slow down.
Many local agriturismi (farm stays) in the area welcome families with educational farm activities (fattorie didattiche). Children can interact with farm animals, learn about traditional farming methods, participate in cheese-making workshops, and discover where their food comes from. These experiences combine education with hands-on fun, making them perfect for families traveling with young children.
For adults, these same locations offer a rare chance to completely unwind—walking through quiet meadows, breathing fresh mountain air, and enjoying the simple pleasure of being surrounded by nature. The Pratoni’s open landscapes, far from urban noise and light pollution, provide an authentic connection to the countryside that’s increasingly rare near major cities. After a day spent exploring the vibrant streets of Rome, returning to this natural setting is like entering a completely different world.
Hiking, Cycling & Horseback Riding
The Castelli Romani Regional Park offers dozens of marked trails for hiking and mountain biking, from easy lakeside walks to challenging ridge routes with sea views.
Popular Trails:
Lake Nemi Circuit: 6 km, easy, family-friendly
Sentiero delle Piagge: 8 km ridge trail with panoramic views
Monte Cavo Summit: Challenging climb to 949m peak
Via Francigena Section: Historic pilgrimage route segment
Link: www.grandtourdeicastelliromani.it/en/pratoni-del-vivaro/
Day Trip to Rome
From Genzano, Rome’s city center is reachable in 40 minutes by car, taxi, bus (COTRAL to Anagnina metro station), or train from Genzano or Campoleone stations.
This makes the Castelli an ideal base for travelers wanting to explore Rome without staying in the city. Visit the Colosseum by day, return to the hills for dinner.
A vacation rental like Casa Tornasole costs a fraction of Rome city center accommodation, with considerably more space, tranquility, and authenticity.
Food & Wine: The Real Reason to Come
The Castelli Romani are, first and foremost, a gastronomic region.
- Genzano IGP Bread – Italy’s only bread with Protected Geographical Indication status. Dense, crusty loaves baked in wood-fired ovens.
- Nemi Wild Strawberries – Tiny, intensely fragrant fragoline di bosco celebrated with an annual festival in June.
- Frascati Wine – One of Italy’s oldest DOC white wines. Crisp, mineral whites from Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes.
- Velletri Artichokes – Carciofi alla matticella, artichokes stuffed with oil, garlic and mint and cooked in ashes.
- Ariccia Porchetta IGP – The region’s signature dish: whole roasted pork with herbs.
When to Visit the Castelli Romani
Season | Weather | Best For | Crowds |
Spring | 15-22°C (59-72°F) | Wildflowers, Infiorata festival | Moderate |
Summer | 25-32°C (77-90°F) | Lake swimming, festivals | Higher |
Autumn | 15-25°C (59-77°F) | Harvest festivals, foliage | Low |
Winter | 5-15°C (41-59°F) | Christmas markets | Very low |
How to Get There
From Rome Termini Train Station
The nearest stations are San Gennaro in Genzano di Roma (Roma–Velletri line) and Campoleone (Roma–Nettuno line), both approximately a 15-minute drive away. From either station, you can take a taxi which will bring you to Casa Tornasole in 5 to 15 minutes.
Frequency: Every 30-60 minutes | Cost: €2.60-3.00 one way
From Rome Anagnina Metro Station
COTRAL buses to Genzano, Ariccia, Albano (30-40 minutes)
Frequency: Every 15-20 minutes | Cost: €2.20 one way
From Airports
- Ciampino Airport: 15 km (20-25 min by taxi €30-40)
- Fiumicino Airport: 55 km (45-55 min by car €70-90)
Why Genzano Is the Smartest Choice
Genzano sits at the geographic and practical center of the Castelli Romani. It’s connected to Rome by frequent buses (no car needed), within walking distance of Lake Nemi and Ariccia, and offers the full range of services, supermarkets, pharmacies, restaurants, bakeries, that some smaller villages lack.
Strategic Location:
Lake Nemi: 2 km (25 min walk)
Ariccia: 3 km (5 min drive)
Castel Gandolfo: 8 km (10 min drive)
Rome city center: 30 km (40/60 min by public transport)
Where to Stay: Casa Tornasole
Everything described in this guide is easily accessible by staying at Casa Tornasole, located in the heart of Genzano di Roma.
A completely renovated apartment featuring:
Balcony with panoramic views
Two bedrooms, each with private bathroom
Fully equipped kitchen (oven, dishwasher, coffee machine)
Living room with sofa bed and 50″ TV
Accommodates up to 6 guests
Soundproof windows, premium mattresses, air conditioning
Free WiFi